Tag Archives: sewing for home

A Weekend of Skirts

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I seem to have reached a crossing point in my sewing. I have crossed from going to a store to find myself a skirt first to going to the fabric store to see if there is any fabric on sale that I can make a skirt from first.

That’s a big step.

That’s the step into the land of crazy.

But that’s also the step I found myself taking a couple of weekends ago when I needed to give my wardrobe a little bit of a business-style refresh. See, I have been making comfy, cute skirts and sundresses for myself over the past two years, but when it comes to something I feel comfortable wearing into an office…let’s just say my retro mushroom skirt with leggings probably isn’t going to do the trick.

So, needing at least one office-worthy skirt that would also be comfy, wouldn’t make me feel horrible when I looked at the size, and would be flattering, I decided to head to my local Joann’s Fabric to check out what they had in jersey knits that was on super clearance (i.e., they had a 50% off clearance fabric sale happening right when I needed to make a skirt for office-wear).

Thankfully, I found two knits that I loved! The first was a simple black jersey; the second was a charcoal and green striped jersey. Both were supple and soft. I decided to go for a maxi-style for the stripe and a mid-length for the black. I also had tons of yardage of a mauve-toned jersey that someone from church gave away as she was moving away. I decided to try out a fold-down yoga skirt tutorial I had pinned long time ago.

The first skirt was done using the mauve print; the photos were taken with my phone, so I apologize for the fuzziness. The first skirt took the longest, as well. I failed to read and realize that, when gathering fabric, you need to hold BOTH the top AND the bobbin threads. I kept gathering fabric, only holding the top thread, only to find I was just pulling the top thread out! It took me awhile to get the hang of gathering fabric — I kept waiting for the threads to break! Thankfully, they didn’t break, and I was able to get my gathers done and serged into place with the waistband.

With that experience under my belt, I tackled the black and striped knits. For the black knit, I decided to cut the body of the skirt to have an a-line that would minimize the gathering. I did this mainly because after trying on the mauve skirt, I wasn’t too keen on how the gathered look…looked. The odd thing with the black skirt is that after sewing and serging, it ended up with the angled look. That was entirely accidental, but I rather like it now! The maxi skirt was done as a simple a-line, but I used the tutorial for the yoga skirt to help me with the waistband. I just made sure the top of the skirt was as wide was my waistband when cutting.

What I love most about these three skirts is they took me a weekend, they are flattering, comfy, simple, and cost a total of $19 in fabric. Hurray for sewing!!!

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Tutorial: Hemming Napkins

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Photo courtesy of:  A Pretty Cool Life
This is another tutorial from a Christmas project I did.  I made a napkin + placemat set for one of my sisters, inspired by this tutorial for the placemats found on Pinterest. Sadly, I didn’t get photos of the finished products (I think I was just so happy to be done that I completely spaced it!), but I didn’t get enough photos of the napkin hemming to show you my own process for it, since the tutorial I had followed focused on the placemats, and I found myself trying to figure out how to make nice crisp corners for the napkins.  Thankfully, the process is really pretty easy.
First, each napkin measured 15.5″ x 15.5″, unfinished.  The end result was 15″x15″.
After cutting each square of fabric, I ironed a half-inch hem on all four sides.  
A view of the pressed edges.
Then, at the sewing machine, I folded the hem in twice.  Basically, I just took the raw edge, folded it to meet the pressed line, then folded over once more.  This gave me a 1/4″ hem.  I sewed close to the inner folded edge.
Starting to sew the first edge.








Before reaching the end of the side, I stopped, opened the side I was working on at the bottom corner (corner facing me), then did the double-fold on the side that I was going to be sewing next.  Once this double-fold was done, I re-folded the side I was working on.

Folding the bottom edge.
Result after folding bottom edge, then refolding side edge.

You’ll see what happens:  a nice, clean corner fold that doesn’t catch on the machine as you’re sewing down and then rotating at the corner to keep sewing.

Keeping the corner secure.
I held on to that edge very firmly with one hand while keeping the double-fold on the side I was sewing folded with the other hand.  It sounds more tricky than it was.
Next edge!
Rotate at the corner, and continue with the same process for all four edges!  

Reversible Tote Tutorial

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Reversible tote bags.  I’ve been loving making these, but I had never taken the time to create a tutorial or take enough pictures for a tutorial.  The last bag I made was for a sister of mine, and I finally took enough pictures to write up a tutorial!

This particular tote differs from the others I have made in a few ways.  First, I used fat quarters to piece the exterior shell, rather than one solid piece of fabric.  Second, I decided to try using pre-made purse handles.  I was using a drastically different fabric for the interior shell (purple), which meant finding fabric to create straps that coordinated with both colors was nearly impossible.  This project was my first using pre-made purse straps, and I kind of want to go back to my other bags and replace the straps!

Supplies

4 fat quarters for outer shell
~ 2/3 yard fabric for inner shell
~ 1/4 yard fabric for inner pocket
~3 yards fusible heavy craft-weight interfacing
3/4 yard cotton netting
1 set pre-made bag handles
Sewing machine
Iron
Pins
Coordinating thread
Ruler
Rotary cutter
Seam ripper
Fabric marking pen
Heavy-weight needle (110/20 is what I used)
Cutting the Fabric

From the fat quarters:
* 2 pieces 6″x 18″ from Fat Quarter 1 (topmost fabric)
* 2 pieces 6″x 18″ from Fat Quarter 2 (middle fabric)
* 2 pieces 8″x 18″ from Fat Quarter 3 (bottom of the bag)
* 2 pieces 6″x 6″ from Fat quarter 4 (pocket)
From the other fabric:
* 2 pieces 17″ x 20″ (inner shell)
* 2 pieces 6″ x 6″ (other pocket)
From the interfacing:
* 4 pieces 17″ x 20″
* 4 pieces 6″ x 6″
From the netting:
* 4, 5″-6″ lengths (depends on how far up from the bag you want the rings to be)
Bag Handles
Using your lengths of netting, simply thread each through the metal ring and sew the loose ends closed.

One length of the netting I used.

All rings except one have the netting attached.

Close-up of the finished netting on the rings.

Assembling the Bag Pieces

Simply sew the three different fabrics for the outer shell together along the 18″ side, using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Iron your seams flat (can be open or pressed to the darker fabric).

The pieces of the outer shell for one side of the bag.
Interfacing, outer shell… and my toes.

Attach the interfacing pieces to each large rectangle for both the outer and inner shells.  You should have 4 large rectangles of interfaced fabric.  In this bag, I actually didn’t interface the inner shell, and it still came out as a pretty sturdy bag.  So, depending on how much wear and tear you think both shells are going to take, you might want to use interfacing on both shells.

Attach the interfacing to the pocket pieces, as well.  These take interfacing on both pieces of each pocket to make for a very study pocket.

Pocket piece for the outer shell of the bag.  

For the pockets:  with fabric right sides together, sew around the 4 sides, leaving a gap for turning the pocket inside-out.  If you’re using directional fabric, MAKE SURE the opening is on the bottom of the pocket.  This way, when you stitch the pocket onto the bag, you will also be closing the seam.  Turn the pockets inside out so the fabric is now facing out in both front and back.  Press the gap so that the fabric and interfacing are tucked inside, so that when you look at the pocket, it seems like it’s completely sewn shut.  (I apologize for the lack of photos for these steps!)

Center outer shell pocket on one outer shell rectangle, and do the same for the inner shell pocket.  I found that I don’t actually need to leave too much give on the pockets to have enough room for whatever I plan on storing inside.  Pin the pockets in place.  At the sewing machine, start on the right side of the pocket, stay stitch a few times before going down the right side.  At the bottom right corner, stay-stitch, then rotate the fabric to stitch across the bottom; stay-stitch the left bottom corner, then stitch up the left side, stay-stitching at the top left corner of the pocket.  The stay-stitching will help reinforce the weak points of the pockets.

Do the same for the inner shell.

Outer shell with pocket attached and a pit of interfacing peaking out the bottom.

Now, place the two outer shell pieces together, right-sides together, and stitch down the right, bottom, and left sides of the bag.  Do the same with the inner shell pieces.  Use a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Trim any excess fabric or interfacing.

The inner shell sewn together.

Ta-da!  Inner shell.

Next, attach the handles to the inner shell.  Judge how far apart you want the base of the handles to be.  I attached mine about 4″ from the outer edge.  (NOTE:  Upon reviewing this, I realized I should have waited to attach the bag handles because sewing through 4 thicknesses of netting PLUS the bag fabrics was really tough to do.  You can wait until assembling the shells together to attach the bag handles.  In fact, I highly recommend doing so.)

Handles about to be attached to the inner shell.  I wish I had waited to do this step.

Boxing Corners

Next, we’re going to box the corners for both shells.  This can be tricky to explain.

At one bottom corner, pinch the fabric so that the side seam and the bottom seam are touching.  This will create a triangle.

Pinching the corner together.  

Another view of the corner being pinched together.  See how the bottom seam and side seam are lining up?

Next, measure 3″ from the corner seam and draw a line.  NOTE:  Your shells should still be right-sides together during this.  Sew along the line you drew, stay-stitching at the both ends of the stitching.  Do the same on the other corner.  Pay special attention that your bottom seam doesn’t end up twisting as you create the second boxed corner.

Sorry for the blurriness.  Measuring from the seam for boxing the corners on the inner shell.

Sewing along the line I drew to create the boxed corner.

Don’t trim the excess; I like that it can help reinforce those corners of the bag.

Putting the Shells Together

Pull the inner shell so that it’s right-side out.  Tuck this shell into the outer shell so that the fabric sides of both shells are touching.  Tuck the handles into the space between the two shells.  (As I reviewed this part, I realized I could have skipped attaching the handles to the inner shell and pinned them in between the two shells at this point. It would have saved me from having 4 thicknesses of netting to sew through, which was rather difficult!!)

NOTE:  Be sure the pockets are on opposite sides from each other.  This will help distribute the weight of the items in the pockets.

Match the side seams together and pin those together.  You may want to pin around the entire top of the bag, leaving a 4″ or 5″ gap for turning the bag right sides out.  I usually don’t because I’m lazy, and I usually find myself wishing I had as I get to the side seams which have inevitably shifted just a smidge.

Stitch around the top of the bag, leaving that gap unstitched, else you’ll have yourself a wonderful, inside-out bag with no handles (trust me, I’ve done it).  Stay-stitch on each end of the gap so that pulling the outer shell fabric doesn’t tear your seam (and bag) too much.  I like the leave the gap on one of the side seams.

If you’ve wisely wait until now to attach the bag handles, you may have a bit of netting sticking out from between the bag sides.  Don’t worry – this will be safely tucked inside when all is said and done.

Tucking the bag handles inside the bag.

Stitching through all those layers of netting.  Not fun. 

Leaving a gap to turn the bag out.

See that gap?  It’s really handy and necessary.

Finishing

Pull the outer shell and the handles out through the gap you left.

Mid-pulling the outer shell through the opening.

This is what the bag looks like before stuffing the inner shell into the outer shell.

Tuck the inner shell into the outer shell.  Press the tops, tucking the folds of the gap so that when you top-stitch around the bag, it will sew that gap closed.

Inner shell tucked into the outer shell.

Then, simply top-stitch around the top of the bag, close to the edge, sewing the opening you pulled the bag through closed in the process.

Inner shell tucked into the outer shell.  Gap still needs to be sewn shut, but I LOVED the look of the outer shell.
Sadly, I forgot to take a photo of the finished bag when it was completely finished.  The above photo is as close as it gets to the finished product (but it’s really close!).
Happy bag-making!  

Summer Pillow!

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A few months ago, I finished my summer quilt to liven up our living room. Because I had so much fabric left over from the experience, I decided to go ahead and make a matching throw pillow.  The center is an 8.5″x8.5″ block, fussy-cut to let the big motif stand out.  The top and bottom borders are two 4.5″x8.5″ coordinating pieces.  Then, on the sides, I pieced together small remnants, again using 4.5″x8.5″ as my end-size before piecing everything together.  The back side of the pillow has a red-orange wavy center, rather than the fussy-cut giant motif.  I had run out of the big motif fabric, or at least run out of 8.5″x8.5″ portions that centered the circle motif, so I went with something different to coordinate, but still keep the same pieced pattern.  I used a 16″x16″ pillow form to stuff it with.

Now that it’s fall, I’m thinking I might need to make myself a fall-colored lap quilt and coordinating throw pillow…

Reversible Fiesta Bag!

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Earlier this month, I bought a set of pre-cut fabric called a jelly roll and created both a table runner and a summer quilt for our living room, using the fabrics from that roll as my base.

As I mentioned in my post about the quilt, I had LOTS of leftover fabric from the yardage I had to buy in order to get a decent-sized quilt made. I decided to make a bag and then a couple of throw pillows with the leftovers.

Well, the bag is now done. I used the oh-so-handy Pinterest to find tutorials and pattern ideas. I had made a bag a couple of years ago in a beginners’ sewing class I took with a friend and debated using that pattern, but I honestly am not sure where the pattern went, and wanted something larger and with pockets anyway.
I debated a lot on the fabric to use for the pockets. I actually ended up making the pockets double-sided, with a solid color and matching coordinating border on one side, and a solid piece of fabric on the other, just to have options. A little silly, maybe, but I honestly spent 30+ minutes just putting fabrics on top of each other, shifting them, flipping them, folding them, debating what on earth to do for the pockets!

The end-result: reversible bag with one large outside pocket and one large inside pocket.  To make it sturdy, I used Pellon’s Craft fusible interfacing on both the inside and outside fabrics (resulting in double interfacing thickness for the completed bag) and pockets.  I used duck cloth to strengthen the handles.

Side note:  I couldn’t help but notice how bold my fabric choices have become, at least in comparison to the bag made in that class a few years ago!

Now, bring on summer!

Side one:  big, bold, fiesta style!

Side two:  fussy-cut the pocket.  I guess this side is a slightly muted fiesta.
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Sewing Tutorial: Chenille Washcloths

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Tutorial:  Faux-Chenille Baby Washcloths 

I had seen a couple of tutorials for chenille blankets on Pinterest while looking for some cute baby shower gifts to make. I loved the idea of the blanket, but I wanted to use the baby flannel and miscellaneous fat quarters I’d found in my fabric stash. The answer? Chenille washcloths. I tried these with a quilting fabric (cotton) backing, and, while I liked the idea, once it was done, I didn’t like the feel. So, I tried it again with ribbed knit for the backing and loved the result!  (Looks like those fat quarters will have to wait!)

What You’ll Need (makes 4 washcloths):

knit fabric for backing (or something stretchy and soft) – 1/4 yard
3 coordinating flannels – 1/4 yard each

Note:  I’ve read on some tutorials that pre-washing isn’t as necessary for this project, since it will be washed all together, but some fabrics shrink differently than others, so I still pre-washed my fabric.

Also, I’m estimating it takes about 1/4 yard of each fabric for this project, since I had 1.5 yards of everything and just cut strips of the widths I needed. 

Step 1:  Cut

Cut 8″ square blocks from the knit. Cut 6″ blocks from the flannel fabrics. You’ll need 3, 6″ blocks for each washcloth, one of each piece of flannel.

Knit blocks – 8″ squares
Flannel blocks – 6″ squares.

Step 2:  Assemble

Place the knit wrong side up (with the knit I was using, there wasn’t an “outer” or an “inner” side, which was nice, but if yours has a print, put the print facing the table). Place the three flannel squares print-side up, facing you, centered on the knit block. To help, I’d measured 1″ from each edge and marked with a washable fabric marking pen, then placed the flannel blocks according to the guide. You can pin the blocks in place, but the flannel against the knit stays pretty well, so I didn’t pin them together.

When deciding the order for the flannels, realize these are going to be fraying together.  If you’re using strong colors, try putting your strongest color either in the middle or on the bottom so it peeks through, rather than dominating.  If using prints, remember you won’t be able to tell what the print was when it’s completed.

I ended up placing the footprints in between the other two, with the yellow stripes on top.
Almost ready for sewing!

Step 3:  Quilt (Sew)

The first line will be diagonal from corner to corner of the flannel. Because I was using light fabric and white thread, and because I have some issues sewing straight lines, I used my fabric marking pen to draw lines on the flannel where I’d need to sew. Once you’ve sewn the center diagonal, you’ll need to continue quilting. Each line should be 1/2″ away from the last. Again, drawing these lines really saved me! During the quilting process, your flannel pieces may shift a little. I tried to keep the shifting from happening too much by keeping the fabric tight as I sewed it. There was still a bit of shift but not too much.

NOTE:  Stay-stitch at the start and end of each line.  I just like to be sure the stitching is secure.

You can see the lines I drew to help guide my sewing. Always sew the center line first.
Sewing right along!
Completed sewing. You can see where the flannel shifted a little.
Back side – looks cool!  Colored thread makes this look pretty cool, too!

After quilting, trim the threads from each line.

Step 4:  Cut

If you have a chenille cutter, great – use it! I don’t, so I used my scissors. Simply cut the flannel between each line of sewing. This was a bit of a slow process for me, as my scissors got caught on the knit now and then. Thankfully, I never cut THROUGH the knit. So, take it slowly if you need to.

You can see my guide-lines for placing the flannel blocks.
Keep on cutting…keep on cutting…just be careful, and don’t cut the knit!
Phew! Done cutting! Since this will be fraying, the fact these aren’t perfect lines doesn’t really matter.

Step 5:  And with the machine, bind them.
 
(I couldn’t help the Lord of the Rings reference…)

I pressed the binding for each cloth without clipping corners first, to see what would happen. I ended up with very bulky corners that I didn’t like. So, I went back and cut the corners of the knit and re-pressed the binding. The corners ended up much more manageable with the lack of so much fabric.

I didn’t measure anything for cutting the corners.  I cut far from the flannel first, then folded the edges, and trimmed closer because the corners were still too bulky. Just don’t cut right up to the flannel.
Pressed, and ready to stitch the binding down!

Once the edges are pressed, simply stitch the binding down! I was nervous still about my stitching, so I used white thread and a zigzag stitch to let the knit keep its stretchiness on the edges. I made sure to stitch the corners, too, as I was sewing around the edge. 

Yo, ho, bind the thing down!
Ready to wash!
I really like how these look on this side, too!

Step 6:  Wash and Dry

I realize this step is self-explanatory, but this is where the magic really happens.  During the washing and drying, the flannel will start fraying.  The cool thing is that the more you wash and dry these, the softer they will get! 

These are so soft!
Bundled up and ready to gift!


Sewing Tutorial: The Hour Apron

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Sewing Tutorial: The Hour Apron

I recently discovered the incredible practicality of an apron. 

Sadly, we only owned one apron.  One.  I needed more.  So, rummaging through my fabric stash, I dug out the 3 yards of canvas and whipped out an apron.  It took about an hour.

Since it was so simple, I decided to create a tutorial for anyone interested.

What? This apron only took an hour to make?

What you’ll need:

scissors
1 1/4 yard of fabric (or 1 yard fabric and 1 1/2 yards coordinating 1.5″ wide ribbon)
coordinating thread
ruler
sewing machine
an old apron

This apron was for my husband.  I had about 3 yards of this home decor-weight (cotton canvas) material in my stash, so the yardage given above is an estimate.  I made an apron for myself using 1 yard of fabric and 1 1/2 yard of ribbon for the ties.

STEP 1:  Pre-shrink your fabric!!!  I didn’t do this with the canvas you see on the first apron.  BAD IDEA.  It shrunk length-wise, and is now waiting until our son is tall enough to use it.  After that, I threw the rest of the canvas in the laundry to pre-shrink before making my husband a replacement apron.

STEP 2:  Measure and cut.

The apron is about 23 inches at the bottom.  I folded my fabric so that I would be cutting a little over 24 inches wide.  For both my husband and I, this bottom width has been perfect.  The fabric should measure about 12 inches wide from the fold to the selvedge edge.

Because the fabric, after being washed, had frayed so much at the bottom, I decided to trim the bottom so that I was left with an even edge to work with. 

I then cut out a full rectangle that measured 33 inches long by 12.5 inches wide (measured from fold to selvege).  Open, the rectangle would be 33 inches by 25 inches.  The apron was going to be about 31 inches long, and I added a couple of inches for hemming.  You don’t HAVE to cut the rectangle completely, but I found it easier to work with the fabric this way.

Next, cut the 1/2 inch of selvege on the long side of the rectangle.  I just don’t like using the selvege in my sewing, since it has a different feel from the rest of the fabric.  You could keep it if you want, since it will be getting tucked as a hem.  But I trimmed it anyway to be sure everything was the same feel and consistency.

Cutting the selvedge on the long edge of fabric.

Lay the old apron, folded length-wise, so that the fold lines up with the fold of your fabric, and the top is about an inch from the top of your fabric.  You should be left with about an inch of fabric extra on the width, and at least an inch extra at the bottom.  This extra inch is for hemming.

The old apron is a great guide for cutting the new apron!

Cut the shape of the curve about an inch or so away from the old apron.  This will give you plenty of fabric for hemming. 

Note how the width is also about an inch wider than the completed apron being used for a pattern.

Press the hem.  I folded the edges down about 1/2 inch, pressed, then folded again, so that there were no raw edges exposed.  You saw how frayed the raw edge to the fabric got from the pre-shrinking.  You don’t want that happening to your apron!

Press this hem all around the apron.  I did the top and bottom first, then the side, and last, the curve.  The first time I did this, I was wary of that curve, but it folded and pressed very easily!

Pressing the hem this way should help it stay put until you’re ready to sew.  If it doesn’t, pin the hem.

First fold for the hem, pressed.
Second fold to tuck the raw edge in.

Next, cut 2 strips of fabric that are 3″x33″, and 1 strip 3″x23″.  These three strips of fabric will be used for the neck piece and the two ties.  If using ribbon for the ties, simply cut two ribbon strips.

Each of these long strips will need to be pressed.  Rather than the double-fold we did for the apron hem, simply press about 1/2 inch on the long edges, then 1/2 inch on the short edge.  Then fold the strip in half length-wise and press.

For the two ties, I left one short edge raw.  If it frays, it won’t be much, because of how short it is.  If you want to leave absolutely no raw edges showing, simply press both short edges in.

NOTE:  If you’re using ribbon for the ties, you only need to do this for the short edges.  

Fold each long edge about 1/2 inch, then the short edge 1/2 inch.
Fold in half and press.

STEP 3:  To the sewing machine!

First, we’ll sew the neck and tie strips.  Start at the fold on one short edge and sew all the way around, making sure you back-stitch when you start and end.  (For the ribbon, just hem the short raw edges.)

Now, start at one bottom corner of the apron, and stitch the hem down.



Shortcut tip: as you reach the point in your hem where the curve begins, take one of your ties and slip it onto the apron so that the short edge of the tie overlaps the hem just a little (about 1/4 inch).  This isn’t at all necessary; you can add the ties after hemming the apron, but I found that it saved me a bit of stitching!  The same goes for the neck strap – simply match it up with the top and stitch it down as you hem.  Remember to let the short end of the strap overlap the hem a little.

Stitching shortcut: Add the tie and neck pieces as you sew along.

Once you’re done hemming and adding the ties and neck strap…you’re done!

NOTE:  I didn’t add a pocket like most aprons seem to have mainly because I have yet to use a pocket on an apron. 

My model husband!
On this apron, I used 1.5″ wide ribbon for the ties.  It added a little more cuteness to the apron!
My hour apron!  (This is shorter than hubby’s by about 5 inches.)